The problem here in Spain is that I get into a highly productive mood and ready to work around 8 pm local time. Luckily, my conference talk was scheduled at 8:05, so that went great. Other than that, though, I manage to erupt in a torrent of work emails and article edits between 8 and 9:30 pm, and that’s about it.
It’s all worth it, though, because San Sebastián is intensely beautiful.



There are sheep grazing under my balcony. Since there’s nowhere to eat for miles around and the Spanish meal schedules are too confusing anyway, I stare at the sheep, thinking, “Food…” The sheep stare back, clearly thinking, “You wish.”

The last time I was in Spain (about 45 years ago), the local restaurants would open to serve a late lunch, then close in the afternoon and re-open around dusk to serve a VERY late supper.
That guaranteed that patrons like me were really hungry when we finally got fed.
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The closest 2 restaurants nearby start serving dinner at 8 pm! If I eat that late, I’ll have nightmares, so it’s just as well I don’t go.
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” around dusk to serve a VERY late supper”
Dusk is very early in Spain the tradition is to have supper around 10 pm or after….
I remember one vacation there was a sad looking Chinese restaurant close to the hotel that always seemed empty.
Had to change rooms for the last couple nights and ended up right across from the restaurant and it was only after 10 that customers started arrive (both take out and sit down).
Spanish eating times are officially nuts….
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I had friends from Spain in grad school who would go in search of dinner options at 11 pm in a small town. It was deeply funny.
On a positive note, I found these really delicious puffed breads. They are like popcorn (which I detest) but made out of bread. Delicious. They are called picos, and I never encountered them before.
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